The Aruban Foodie Chronicle - Issue #14

Flying Fishbone & The Smoke of Pagara

Bon Dia, Foodie!

Welcome to The Aruban Foodie Chronicle! We are at the grand finale of the year. If you thought Christmas was festive, wait until you experience how Aruba says goodbye to the "Old Year."

In this celebratory issue, we visit the pioneer of on-the-water dining, Flying Fishbone, for a meal you’ll never forget. We fry up a batch of fluffy Johnny Cakes (perfect for New Year's Day breakfast), and we explain why the island will disappear under a cloud of smoke on December 31st.

Chronicle Spotlight: Flying Fishbone - Dining In the Caribbean Sea

While several restaurants now offer beach dining, The Flying Fishbone in Savaneta is the pioneer that started the trend of putting tables not just on the sand, but in the water. If you are looking for the ultimate memorable meal to close out the year, this is it.

The Flying Fishbone Experience: Located in the fishing village of Savaneta, this restaurant transforms a quiet bay into a magical dining room. The lower deck tables are situated in the shallow, calm water. Guests remove their shoes and dine with the gentle tide lapping at their ankles. It is whimsical, romantic, and uniquely Aruban.

The Cuisine: The menu blends European cuisine with Caribbean flair, focusing on presentation and fresh ingredients.

  • The Seafood History: Being in Savaneta (the fisherman's town), the seafood is top-tier. The Savaneta Seafood History platter is a favorite, featuring a medley of the day's catch.

  • Unique Pairings: They are known for creative combinations, like Shrimp with Blue Cheese Casserole or Tuna Tataki with a tropical twist.

Why It Matters to The Aruban Foodie Chronicle: Flying Fishbone took advantage of Aruba's greatest natural resource—the calm leeward coast—and turned it into a culinary asset. It remains one of the most photographed and beloved dining experiences on the island.

Your Chronicle Local Tip: The "in-water" tables are the most coveted on the island. If you can't snag one for New Year's, aim for a 5:00 PM reservation in early January to catch the full sunset transition. Wear sandals!

Location: Savaneta 344, Savaneta, Aruba.

Aruban Kitchen: The Golden Cushion - Johnny Cakes

While Pan Bati is baked and Funchi is boiled, the Johnny Cake is the island's beloved fried bread. Originally "Journey Cakes" (because they traveled well), these are now a staple of Aruban breakfasts and BBQ platters. They are slightly sweet, crisp on the outside, and pillowy soft on the inside.

Authentic Aruban Johnny Cake Recipe

Ingredients:

  • 3 cups all-purpose flour

  • 2 tbsp sugar

  • 1 tbsp baking powder

  • 1/2 tsp salt

  • 1 tbsp butter (room temperature) or vegetable oil

  • 1 cup water (approximately)

  • Vegetable oil for frying

Instructions:

  1. Mix Dry Ingredients: In a large bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt.

  2. Cut in Fat: Add the butter (or oil) and work it into the flour with your fingers until crumbly.

  3. Form Dough: Gradually add water, kneading gently until you have a soft, non-sticky dough. You may not need all the water.

  4. Rest: Cover the dough with a cloth and let it rest for at least 30 minutes. This relaxes the gluten and makes them fluffy.

  5. Shape: Divide the dough into small balls (about golf ball size). On a floured surface, flatten each ball into a disc using a rolling pin or your hands. They should be about 1/4 inch thick.

  6. Fry: Heat about an inch of oil in a frying pan to 350°F (175°C). Fry the discs for 2-3 minutes per side until puffed and golden brown.

  7. Serve: Slice open while hot and fill with Dutch cheese, ham, or leftover holiday ham!

Behind the Bites: The Pagara - Smoke, Noise, and New Beginnings

On December 31st, don't expect a quiet lunch. The entire island partakes in the tradition of the Pagara.

A Pagara is a long string of Chinese firecrackers—sometimes millions long—laid out in the streets by businesses and families. Lighting them is a noisy, smoky ritual designed to ward off the "Fuku" (bad spirits/bad luck) from the previous year and pave the way for a prosperous New Year.

The Culinary Connection: The lighting of the Pagara is a massive social event.

  • The Schedule: It usually starts in Oranjestad around 12:00 PM and moves through the hotel districts in the afternoon.

  • Street Food: As crowds gather to watch the smoke, pop-up bars and food stands appear selling beer, pastechi, and soup. It is the biggest "street party" of the year.

  • The Aftermath: Once the smoke clears, it is traditional to sweep the red paper away (cleaning out the old year) and toast with champagne or whiskey.

Foodie Event Calendar: What's Cooking & Where? (Starting December 22th)

We are in the final countdown! Here is your schedule for the peak holiday week:

  • Christmas Dining (December 24th & 25th)

    • What: Most major restaurants (like Papiamento, Flying Fishbone, Passions) will be serving their exclusive Christmas set menus. If you do not have a reservation, look for hotel buffets which may have last-minute walk-in availability.

  • Boxing Day Brunches (December 26th)

    • What: The day after Christmas is a time to relax. Look for lavish brunch spreads at resorts like the Hyatt Regency or Renaissance Wind Creek, often featuring leftover-inspired stations and mimosas.

  • New Year's Eve "Pagara" Parties (December 31st)

    • Where: Downtown Oranjestad (Renaissance Marketplace area) & High-Rise Hotel Strip.

    • What: The ultimate day-party. Grab a spot at a balcony bar like Café the Plaza or MooMba Beach starting at noon to watch the firecracker shows safely while enjoying lunch and drinks. The atmosphere is electric.

  • New Year's Day Brunch (January 1st, 2026)

    • What: After a night of fireworks, the tradition is a lavish recovery brunch. It’s the tastiest way to start 2026.

Your Chronicle Action Plan:

  1. Earplugs & Appetite: If you are in Oranjestad on the 31st, bring earplugs for the Pagara and cash for the street food vendors.

  2. The "Dande" Visit: If you are dining out this week, you will likely be visited by a Dande group (musicians). It is customary to tip them as they sing blessings for you!

Bon Aña Nobo! (Happy New Year!)

That's it for this issue of The Aruban Foodie Chronicle!

We hope you're feeling inspired to explore more of Aruba's incredible culinary landscape.

Discovered a hidden gem or a new favorite dish? Let us know by replying to this email! We love hearing from our foodie community.

Enjoying the Chronicle? Please share it with a friend who loves food and dreams of Aruba!